Gigot sleeve era hat?

[Helena]

I have made the outfit as you know.
Mid 1890's era. And to top it off I should have something on my head, yes? Because ladies should wear hats or other kind of head wear.

But the thing is that I am 100% newbie when it comes to hats. I am sure I can put it together. But I need something to start with.

There are patterns for hats. But I wonder if it is assumed that you should have a hat block to shape the hat? Or are there patterns that you can sew a hat that can work without needing the block?

Then there's the option of buying a ready made "hat frames".
Found this link with lots of frames. But I am stumped there, I don't know what shape would be proper for mid 1890's hat!
http://www.hatsupply.com/Sinamay.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you want to see what I am wearing:
Here I am, I am the one wearing purple outfit with golden metal+black trimmed cape. (the cape is not finished, I will decorate it MORE! )

1victorians.jpg (77.54 KiB) Viewed 8655 times

And in this thread there are pictures of the bodice:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6936
(I have added another bretelle/flounce row to the shoulders, not photographed yet)

Thank you for all kind of help.

[Dale]

Try Denise Nadine Design, a she has hat patterns for all eras with instructions and materials. You can take a look at: http://www.denisenadinedesign.com/

Post your finished hat for us to look at!!
Dale

[smt22]

Lynn McMasters also has a good pattern:

http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/LaBelleHat.html

I made this one last year for my sister, don't have a photo of it unfortunately, but it turned out great!

Love your dress!

[smt22]

Another way to get the BIG 90s hat is to cover a straw hat with fabric. That's what I did for these two hats (both last-minute, night-before-the-event jobs as usual!):

[Helena]

I wrote a reply, but the window died. :/

I wanted to say thank you to everyone who replied. I am so happy about seeing many being helpful here.

I have been out looking for suitable hat to dress but in this city there are only items that is fashionable now and not much else. (the climate for small business is very harsh in Sweden so there are almost only big brand stores) So basically being winter and also this trends winter 2012-13 I found no straw hats. Then I also went to two costume type stores but they did not have any close to the shape for 1890s.

I have looked at the Lynn McMasters patterns before but I thought you have to have wood (or similar) block base?
smt22, did you make this without the block?

I usually buy from here for the steels and such. I think I am going to buy the pattern and the materials from here, and I do not have much time to spend so I would like to buy all I need at once. Could you help me with buying the proper materials? That is, point out which products I should buy?

http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/Product ... terns.html

The pattern being here:
http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/Product ... ml?q=belle

THANK YOU again for all help!

[MaryGode]

I'm interested in the bonding buckram they list. It says to wet it and drape over a block. I wonder if it can be used dry like plain buckram.

All of the Lynn McMasters patterns I've used have been of the flat buckram sewn and wired variety. If you can't find buckram I've used Pellon Peltex to great effect. This bonnet frame is buckram and this one is Peltex. I like the Peltex one better. It feels more stable.

Edit to add:

Totally didn't answer your question! For a LMcM hat you need a pattern, buckram (or peltex. I swear I have no connection to Pellon!), millinery wire, bias tape to tape the wired edges, cotton flannel for the mull layer (glued to the buckram), and whatever fashion fabric and decorations you want to cover your frame with.

Another edit:

I see they have actual Mull! I've never been able to get that. I've always used a cotton flannel or a thin cotton quilt batting.

[Helena]

Thank you for your reply, Mary!

I will go through the list later, but for now I wonder if this would work as equivalent for your Peltex:
http://www.stoffochstil.se/Katalog/Syti ... leid=14639
(this is a local chain store, good prices)

I could not find English text... But when I read the text it looks like it could work?
Crazy translation courtesy of Google:
Vildona is a very powerful shims used for bags, belts, hats and other hobby work.

Fixed WITHOUT steam. Squeeze gradually with pressure, pressure recommended number of seconds, move the iron, pressing with pressure and continue until the entire part is fixed. Always do a test on a small piece of fabric before you start. Allow the part to cool down before you start sewing.

Does it sound like Peltex?

[MaryGode]

The projects they say it's used for sound right. Peltex has some single- and double-sided fusible varieties but they're like fusible interfacing on steroids. They don't have any molding qualities. It's strictly flat and you make the shape with how you cut and sew and wire.

If it is a heat-moldable product it'd be something like Fosshape I imagine.

[Helena]

Ok, then I will go and feel on the actual product if it is like what you are saying.

EDIT: Fosshape looks like it is fun but I think it it is not that type the variety is sold at S&S. The pressing part is for the sticking to fabric. I think.

[Rhiarti]

Vena Cava have all the materials for the Lynn McMasters hats too - I'd be lost without that shop!

I'd really love to hear how you get on with the pattern if you try it. I've had the buckram etc sitting looking accusingly at me for months now, but still haven't been brave enough to get on and start work on it!

Beautiful outfit, by the way. Is that the Truly Victorian 1890s cape pattern? It looks wonderful!

[Helena]

Thank you!

Yes the cape is TV I will decorate it more! Waiting for feather (that is, feathers not just fluff) fringe and such I have bought online. Slow shipping it seems.

The bodice is TV too but heavily modified. The gigot sleeves are TV too separate pattern, and those are NOT modified at all. It is the skirt and the underpinnings that are not TV.