Vest basque help

[totchipanda]

Ladies, I have a dilemma. I usually take 2" out of the upper chest of my pattern which has been working great, but I'm running into trouble with the vest basque. The tuck in the pattern falls right at the top, and I get a really weird shape at the top. Should I take it out of the bottom instead? I'm concerned that the vest will be too long if I just leave it without adjustment.

[Heather]

Before you shorten the pattern, if you are used to working with the old hand drawn bodices.... then the new CAD drawn patterns have had some changes in the front lengths over the shoulder. So if you are switching formats, you might need less of a change than before.

When making the alteration for the too-long-over-the-top-of-the-shoulder problem, the short vest doesn't reach up that high, so if should not be effected by any changes made to the side front piece. So, no, you won't need to make any changes to the vest.

And you certainly don't want to take it off the bottom in any case, or it will change the bust position in relation to the rest of the bodice.

[totchipanda]

It's one of the hand-drawn patterns, but I will try to put the vest piece on normally first and see what happens

I have a new question! The armscye sits directly in my armpit and rubs any part of my underarm no matter what I'm doing D: Is that normal or should I take it down a bit? The back of the neck is also doing funny things like wrinkling pretty seriously; should I trim that down a bit too?

Thank you so much for all the help, Heather. I really appreciate the time taken to help people with limited tailoring experience like me :3

[Heather]

Do you have photos? It is hard to diagnos issues without seeing them. You can post them here or email them to me, which ever you prefer. Thanks.

[totchipanda]

Certainly :3 the neckline is mostly behaving now that I have the front pieces in (I feel like they are too high, but I could probably just take a straight 1-2" off the top instead of tucking like I thought... Darn this summer cold). The arms don't feel too tight either.

[Heather]

Thank you for the pics. I would prefer to see more of the bodice, and with you standing naturally. Raising your arm distorts the fit, so it is hard to get a good feel for what is going on. I am thinking that the front length is a little too short from the shoulder seam to the point of the bust. It seams very tight over the shoulder, and might even be pulling up the front bust and waist. Lengthening the front shoulder area should also give you more room in the armhole. and make it more comfortable to wear.

[totchipanda]

I will let out the shoulder seam and see how that works Once the front was put in it really fit a lot better than I thought it was going to. Thanks again

[totchipanda]

Thank you again for the assistance, Heather. I should have known better than to make guesses at fit when I wasn't wearing my corset. It's perfect, although I'm not sure how to keep my chemise from showing (but that's a problem for next week lol)