Creating a Smooth Bodice

Find out how to get that dang thing to fit.
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Creating a Smooth Bodice

Postby Jmeder » Fri Jul 04, 2014 4:23 pm

Hi Heather,
I am currently working on a psudo-victorian costume piece for an upcoming convention. I am an avid fan of your patterns; you are an amazingly talented woman who has assisted so many in their historical reproductions. I was wondering if you had any advice on how to create a perfectly SMOOTH, stress-free victorian bodice. Below, I used your French Vest pattern with minor style alterations. The interfaced silk dupioni is flatlined and roll pinned to a medium-weight cotton drill and boned invisibly to the seam allowances at CF, Front Princess, Princess Dart, Between Princess Dart and Side Seam, Side Seam, Back Side, Back Princess, and CB. While the bust and back are beautifully smooth and wrinkle-free, I am having a difficult time creating a smooth fit below the bust of this bodice at the CF opening. Do you have any tips or tricks that would alleviate this problem. In the past, when topstitching the boning channels through all layers, I have been able to remove all traces of stress and wrinkling. I am marginally discouraged at the finished results and I eagerly await your assistance. Thank you so much!

Best Wishes,
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Re: Creating a Smooth Bodice

Postby Heather » Fri Jul 04, 2014 5:24 pm

Wow, I think that bodice looks and fits amazing. There is barely any stress lines at all. Honestly, I don't see how you can get it any smoother than it is. I think you are chasing the impossible at this point, at least for a silk dress. If it was a wool, I would say to cut the fabric a tad bit shorter than the lining and make it stretch to fit. But silk won't do that. And the shine on silk will always exaggerate the stress lines. Honestly, I don't know how you got it as smooth as you did.
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Re: Creating a Smooth Bodice

Postby Helena » Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:09 am

woooooooooow look at the fit. be happy.

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