Removing armhole fullness

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Removing armhole fullness

Postby smt22 » Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:57 am

Hi Heather,

Please could you kindly re-post your diagram showing how to remove fullness at the armhole/side bust by pivoting the darts? I found your instructions in a thread but the picture had gone. Many thanks! Susan
Susan T
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Re: Removing armhole fullness

Postby Heather » Mon Apr 22, 2019 6:17 pm

Here is the diagram for the bust dart shift, to get rid of the extra fullness at the front of the armhole.

fittingfront.jpg (41.08 KiB) Viewed 1302 times

This comes into play when you have the equivalent of a bust dart of extra fabric at the front armhole, pointing towards your bust point. On your mock up, pin in a dart here, so that the bodice lays smooth. Try to make the point of the dart head towards the point of the bust, if possible. This will give you an idea of how much you need to adjust.

Back at your pattern, you want to draw the dart lines you just added to your mockup. When you draw them, make the point go to the tip of the second bust dart, regardless of where the actually ended up on your mockup. Then cut up the center of the bust dart to the bust point, and then from the bust point up the center of the armhole dart. It helps to leave a little hinge point uncut at the tip of the darts. Pivot the side part of the Front pattern, so that the armhole dart lines overlap each other, and the bust dart is wider. Tape the pattern down, and fill in the gap of the bust dart with some extra paper. Redraw the armhole to a round curve, and you are all set.

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