Page 1 of 1

TVE41 Trouble

Posted: Sat May 25, 2019 4:24 pm
by tinalouise88
Hi, I'm having a few issues, well one large issue that I can't seem to figure out why it is doing what it is doing. This is the second Edwardian blouse pattern that has done this to me and I'm starting to wonder if it's just me and my boobs haha or if it is too big?

I Frankensteined the pattern slightly as I wanted a yoke. Besides the obvious issue, I am liking the fit of it.

The neckline was slightly gaping so I gathered in it a bit and stitched the yoke part done overlaying it. But the shoulders are extremely wide on me, and falling off and making the sleeves fall off. I even had the hubby pin the back of the dress between the three buttons I put in for a fitting

Should I just reshape the armhole?

Is my front just too big?

I have a 48 bust, with a 16.5 back with and by calculating it told me to cut the size I or J for the front as I was between the two sizes. I choose the larger first.

The back seems to be fitting fine from what I can tell.

mock up.jpg
mock up.jpg (1.21 MiB) Viewed 827 times

Re: TVE41 Trouble

Posted: Sun May 26, 2019 7:52 am
by Heather
Do you have pics of the sides and back? I can't tell if there is something in the back that should be fixed to help the front out. But it looks like there something going on back there. Then front looks like it is climbing up meaning the back might be too short. The neckline is way too high in the front, climbing up your neck. The armhole is being pushed down by your arm. Maybe it is all too small. I just want to lift up the back and grab the front and yank it down about 2" and see if that helps.

Looking at getting that part right would be first. Then after that, the armhole can be adjusted to fit around your arm. If it is pulling up into your armpit, then you most likely need to change the angle of the shoulder to give you more room over the top of the shoulder. Once you have the bottom of the armhole at the correct level, then can cut the armhole away from the arm to fit properly. As it looks now, the armhole is too small. If you cut your sleeve to your measurement, you should be fine. But you might need to cut a larger sleeve to fit into the larger armhole.

If you want a little more ease over the bust, you can let out the side seams a bit, which will both move the armhole forwards, and give you more room.

Re: TVE41 Trouble

Posted: Sun May 26, 2019 10:13 am
by tinalouise88
So I don't have time to really put everything on and take better photos. But I have these ones from yesterday. I already fixed the back after that photo, it doesn't gape with a have more buttons/pins that i got my hubby to pin for me. but I am letting it out either way for extra room center back but adding another 3/4 of an inch on the back seam. just to extend the placket slightly.

I don't find the armholes binding or even loose on me. It's actually pretty comfortable strangely enough and I can move my arms freely. I had an issue with my corset cover needing to be taken in under the arm on the seam because they were really gaping. But I also really just guess my size for that one, so thats probably my fault.

I added a small seam allowance to the yoke so I could stitch it down to the cut edge of the neckline.

I plan on having a silk lining, with an overblouse of the same embroidered net. So the net will have a full blouse, while the bodice lining will be sleeveless with a more open neckline. Mostly since I have very little silk to work with.

IMG_5189.jpg (1.56 MiB) Viewed 824 times

IMG_5149.jpg (1.69 MiB) Viewed 824 times

I pinned the gaping down, to try and bring the shoulder forward. Probably an inch on each side. Sadly I didn't have a photo of it unpinned.

IMG_5158.jpg (1.32 MiB) Viewed 824 times

Re: TVE41 Trouble

Posted: Sun May 26, 2019 10:28 am
by tinalouise88
IMG_5161.jpg (1.75 MiB) Viewed 824 times

With the yoke and no sleeves on.
The yoke itself is the length of where I want my shoulder seam to be, essentially.

IMG_5154.jpg (1.66 MiB) Viewed 824 times

Gathing of the neckline to try and pull it in and try and make the shoulders stay up.

Should I just make a mockup of it regular? Just see what happens in the shoulders

It's comfortable and can move in it, its just the shoulder area, and neckline that

IMG_5104.jpg (1.6 MiB) Viewed 824 times

Another pattern company( Black Snail) with the same issues for comparison. I ended up going down a size just to make the neckline, not gape (as much) and help the falling shoulders. This one came with a yoke built into the pattern.

I work at a ballet company in the wardrobe, I understand many things and I sew for a living but this I just beyond my knowledge of historical stuff.

Re: TVE41 Trouble

Posted: Sun May 26, 2019 11:31 am
by Heather
It's always is best to fit with the high neck, and after you have it fitting properly, design the yoke shape and re-cut. When you cut the neck out low for fittings, it will tend to stretch out on the bias, and will not generally fit well. And with a blouse, you are going to have more ease than in a bodice, so you are going to have a lot more gapping to start anyway.

Part of the issue is that you have a large bust with narrower shoulders. And this is when you have to start shifting the armhole around. When you look at the front, you can see the pleats forming at the armhole. These are caused by the arm pushing the fabric out of the way. Which means the armhole needs to by cut away from the arm to where it lays smoothly, without being pushed away by the arm. If you are comfortable with the base height under the arm, then you would just need to cut the armhole forwards more, and the trim off the the top over the shoulder also. This should take away most of the pleating at the front armhole. This will also mean that you will need to reshape your yoke higher over the shoulder as well. Right now, you are trying to pull the shoulder straps over, the you really need to draw then at a different angle.

Re: TVE41 Trouble

Posted: Sun May 26, 2019 4:34 pm
by tinalouise88
Narrow/across front and Shoulders! wow, thats the first time I ever heard that. but I have had issues with patterns in everyday clothes with my necklines so it does make sense.

I guess I will print off a new pattern play around with the shoulders and armscye and make a new mockup. and see what happens when I play around with things.

Thanks so much for the help!